As parents of a toddler the idea of staying long in bed during weekends doesn't exist for us any more, therefore we can often be caught as first visitors in random places of the city. On July 21st, the day of coronation of the new king of Belgium, we promised ourselves to stay as far away from the down town as possible. After all, it's going to be crowded, lots of streets blocked, traffic... We planned a calm breakfast at some small cafeteria on the border of the city.
After driving around empty streets for some time, not being able to find ONE place that would be open, we finally ended up in front of the church that hosted the big ceremony. The streets were absolutely empty, we could park just next by, in front of the church there was small crowd gathering, but not very overwhelming yet. I guess fact that it was 8 am in the morning on Sunday explains a lot.
After a bit of walking around, Chris offered to go to famous 'painquot' to have the breakfast. And the closest one was at Galerie de la Reine.
Le Pain Quotidien is a famous bakery chain in Brussels. Set up in 1990 by Belgian, who couldn't find proper bread for his restaurant and decided to make some of his own. It not only grew into chain of bistros offering way more than just baked goods, but also spread all over the globe (see Wiki). By many people it's known as "the place that sells bread for 10eur a loaf".
It's very nice and cosy place, offering number of tasty and organic food. Of course, there's big selection of bread, but also salads, drinks, pies and so on. Lots of the products you can actually buy to enjoy at your own home. Yes, it is expensive. But what you get for the price is very tasty, healthy and organic food, great atmosphere, charming staff and, in this case, beautiful surrounding. We were even lucky enough to be accompanied by a street opera singer, which made the experience that much better.
The first "painquot" opened at Rue Dansaert, but, without seeing many others, I think the one at the gallery is just about the best.
A little bit about the gallery then. Trying not to repeat too much of the Wikipedia page, it's basically shopping mall designed for higher classes. Having quite striking resemblance to Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan, though smaller, was actually created 30 years earlier. So if their Wikipedia page says that Milan's gallery was the oldest shopping mall... well, seems like Brussels wins that one!
The whole complex, called Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, consists actually of three galleries - Galerie de la Reine (Queen's gallery) - is the one with Le Pain Quotidien, Galerie de la Roi - King's gallery, and small Galerie des Princes. Altogether though, they just create one common space.
You will find number of fancy shops inside, starting from hat-makers to chocolateries (of course). It's not a surprise either that the whole gallery is a registered monument. Between the stores you will also find Théâtre des Galeries Saint-Hubert, which is registered monument on its own, but we'll leave that one for the next time.
Le Pain Quotidien hides quite a number of places inside (check the upper floor), but I enjoy sitting "outside" (which is still inside the gallery). Points for being child-friendly - staff is very nice and helpful and the area is closed, meaning our little one can run around fairly freely without disappearing from our eyes (passing tourists seem to be enchanted though, by a "lone" toddler running around in between them).
If you entered the galleries from the Grand Place side (starting by Galerie de la Reine), and you pass till the end of Galerie de la Roi, outside, on the corner, you will find a small brasserie, A La Mort Subite. I will try to post few words about the place some other time, but I can already mention that you should definitely stop by and try the famous Belgian Kriek - traditionally Brussels cherry beer (not only for girls).
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